Archive for March, 2010

Sources of books (was Re: Wanted:Service manual for 1987 Nissan)

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

One source for automotive books is:

Auto-Bound, Inc.
2313 Santa Clara Avenue
Alameda, CA 94501

They have an 800 number, but it’s somewhere down in the compost
pile that used to be my desk.  They say they happily do international
mail order.  A small store with a big network.  

For such a new car, you might first have a look in the owner’s manual.  
I don’t know Nissans, but many manufacturers are including an order
form for the genuine factory books these days.

Short of that, you can get an aftermarket manual.  I’m impressed by
Haynes, though I wouldn’t try anything really hair-raising like a
transmission rebuild or the rewiring of a burnout with one.  Haven’t
read or tried to use a new-look Chilton’s manual; the old ones were
unimpressive.  Haven’t seen a Clymer’s in awhile.

Happy wrenching,
–Joe

: Looking for service manual on  1987 Nissan Multi
: (named as StanzaWagon in US).

HeeeellllllPPPPP! I'm going crazy!

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

By now some of you have been treated to the downhome humor
of the trials and tribulations of me trying to restore my
’65 Falcon over the past year, and having one bad thing befall
me after another. Welll, recently I’ve been trying to get the
ol’ girl inspected, having completed the mechanical part of
the restoration (or so I thought). I failed inspection in MD
on a couple of minor thing that I’ve since fixed. BUT, now I
have NEW problems stemming from one of the things I failed on.

I failed because my exhaust was not ‘adequately torqued’ to the
exhaust manifold of my 200 straight six. Well, I had THEM tighten
it, which they did, but then they noticed this ‘hole’ in the
manifold itself that they then declared MUST be plugged or I’d
still fail. The hole was once the port for a tube that recycled
some exhaust gas back into the air horn of the carb (NOT the
same as the choke tube!). I guess it was a paleolithic cat converter.
Well, I’ve been told they didn’t work too well (the super hot
gas going into the carb decreased efficiency?!?!), so the original
owner simply removed the tube, and left the hole.

Well, I tapped and plugged the hole as the Garage told me, and
the engine has ran like s**t ever since? Why? What can I do about
this. I’m not even sure this is the cause of my problem, but I’ve
checked most everything else. I reset the carb completely to spec,
I checked to see if the timing was still on and it is. I checked
the fuel pump pressure. I checked the cylinder compression. The only
thing I know that’s different is the plugged hole.

What I’m experiencing now is that it WON’T idle. I cranked the idle
set screw almost all the way out, and turned the idle adjust almost
all the way in, and that made it RUN, but horribly! The rpms went
with a steady ‘whrrr-whrrr-whrrr’, fluctuating between 1000 and 1600
(it’s supposed to be 1200 even). Even with those goofy settings, the
engine sounded like it wanted to quit all the time, but without the
set screws set ‘wrong’ it wouldn’t keep running unless I ‘stepped on
it’. Can anyone think of why plugging a 1/4" hole in the exhaust
manifold would cause such a bad response in the engine idle? I’m
not really ‘up’ on backpressure or whatnot, but I’ve also run out
of ideas. I’m really considering ‘jury rigging’ it long enough to
show the station the remaining TWO things that needed fixing, then
taking the plug out when I get home…

Any help would be appreciated. C’mon, help me get this crummy car that
has it in for me ON THE ROAD!

cheers,

Brendan Perry

69 Camaro Interior

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

Wanted:  Full 69 Camaro deluxe interior.  Black or white preferred.
Seller should be from Tri-State area.          
Send info to:  raquel.rom…@nycps.nycenet.edu
Thanks.

Morgans…

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

Hello,
        Does anyone have an address for the Morgan factory or a Morgan
interest group ? Thanks in advance.

                                        Alun

WANTED: Early post-war Jeep parts

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

This is for my bro, who’s in the midst of completely restoring a ’48
Willys
CJ-2A and is interested in procurring parts.  Any and all items are of
interest to him.  If you have any, he’ll consider complete or incomplete
vehicles in various states.  He travels a lot, and would be very likely to
come down and take a look to see what  you’ve got.

Please Email and list of parts and the price you’re asking.  I’d have
posted this in rec.autos.marketplace, but the market there seems to lean
towards the last 20 years… not the last 50… :-)

Dan Berry
Technical Support / Network Administrator
Bookstore Computers
University of Alberta, Edmonton

MGB's & MGA's

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

A friend collector and restorer is looking to buy MGB’s and MGA’s in any
shape. If you know of any, or interested in sharing your hobby, please
e-mail me your name, phone number etc.


Avishai & Jonathan Halevy                      
email: avis…@amug.org     Snail Mail to: POB 6130 Phoenix.AZ 85005
__________________________________________________                      
| In the midst of the word he was trying to say, |
| In the midst of his laughter and glee,         |
| He had softly and suddenly vanished away—    |
| For the Snark was a Boojum , you see.          |
| ("The Hunting of the Snark" –  Lewis Carroll)  |
|________________________________________________|

Re 61 Ford Falcon Parts

Saturday, March 27th, 2010

Thanks a lot for the info Michael. If memory serves me correctly, I think the
tail light on my car has a conical protrusion, but I never really took a close
enough look at it. I will definitely give the two companies that you suggested a
try.

later!
steve.

Winshield foggy.

Saturday, March 27th, 2010

My 65 Mustang alway foggy in the front/rear, I used anti-fog and some other products
still doesn’t work, any one have this problems ?, appreciate for your help.

Rust-pitted sheetmetal

Saturday, March 27th, 2010

e a method/methods of treatment for
rust-pitted sheetmetal. The mmmmmmmmmmmeeeeeeeeeeetttttttttttaaaaaaaaaaallllll
is fairly thick- body of 37 chevy. Ive been grinding some ,then using
phosphoric acid till the pits look fairly clean, then using glazing putty and
primer to fill the pitts. While the results look good today, I wonder how
it will look years down the road. Might the glazing pop out? Is the rust really
dead? Some advice would be very much appreciated.

Packards

Saturday, March 27th, 2010

I received an e-mail message from someone asking my opinion on the price of
a ’49 Packard. A problem in my software caused me to lose that message before
I was able to reply. Please re-send it. Thank you.

Paul Cruce