A friend of mine is trying to identify a very old Ford Roadster
(it is thought to be circa 1908 but unsure) The serial number
appears to be 855502, with the numbers 8356 stamped in the
cylinder head. Can anyone tell me whether the car can be identified
with those numbers?
Thanks in advance
Joe Mierwa
I’m trying to get a ’63 Caddy ready for some paint. There is only one
spot where rust is coming through from the inside (behind the left front
fender), the rest is surface rust on the roof, trunk lid, and front
of the hood. I’m not trying to make a show car, just wanting to make
it look decent and preserve it at minimal expense.
I’ve had a couple of recommendations for POR 15 which is not a rust
converter but supposedly a really tough, hard paint that you can use
over rust. Another product I’ve seen in Hemmings is Bill Hearsh’s (sp?)
Miracle Paint. Any net experience with these or other products? I’ll
have to either find a disk sander or get the surfaces sand-blasted,
I’m sure. Are there any good references for doing this type of bodywork?
Any recommendations for reasonably priced body or paint shops in DC
area? I intend to do as much work myself as possible but am not quite
sure how far I’ll get.
Thanks,
David Mackintosh
parts needed for a 1968 Ford Galaxie 500 XL Fastback:
HOOD
BOTH REAR QUARTERS
END CAPS THAT SURROUND THE TAILLIGHTS
REFLECTORS FOR THE REAR QUARTERS
"390" BADGES
-SEPERATED INTO THREE BLOCKS WITH THE NUMBER ON A RED BACKGROUND
– NOT SURE IF USED ON ANY OTHER FORD OF THE TIME
THE FOLLOWING IS A LIST OF ENGINE PARTS NEEDED:
EXHAUST MANIFOLD – EITHER DRIVERS SIDE OR BOTH SIDES
352 HEADS
428 CJ INTAKE
428 CJ CRANK SHAFT
IF YOU HAVE ANY OF THESE PARTS OR ANY OTHERS LET ME KNOW
In article <65…@mimsy.umd.edu>, mi…@umiacs.umd.edu (Mitchell Murphy) writes:
>Anyone out there have experience fixing cowl rust in early Mustangs? I
>have a ’66 conv I’m working on, and am somewhat clueless as to where to start
>cutting. I’m really tired of getting my feet wet.
>-mitch
>–
>Spoken: Mitch Murphy Domain: mi…@umiacs.umd.edu UUCP:uunet!mimsy!mitch
>Phone: +1-301-405-6734 USPS: UMIACS, Univ. of Maryland, College Park, MD 20742
My father and I replaced the cowl on our ’67 Stang. It is really a time
consuming job. Here is the way to do it. I hope that you are a really good
welder. My father is a welder by trade and he had quite a tussle. Here it
goes. The first thing to do is have the fenders, hood, and windshield off or
out of the car. Next, there is a tool to drill out all of the spot welds. By
doing this, and making a few cuts, you’ll be able to lift the cowl right off
the car. This easily makes for replacement of the rusted parts. When putting
the cowl back on make sure it is directly in the same place. Otherwise, the
fenfenders and hoodll not line up. Good Luck!!!!!!!!!
brian : b…@lehigh.edu
I want to tow a ’68 Lincoln Continental with a "teardrop C-6" automatic
transmission over a distance of about 45 miles. Speed will be 60 mph
during most of the drive. The last thing I want to do is damage the
transmission. Will this be a problem? E-mail or post reply.
Dan.
What’s the market like (prices and availability) for old British Sports Cars
in the US and Canada?
I am specifically interested in:
Jaguar XKE and other XKs
MG-A and earlier
Austin Healey
TRs
Sunbeam Tiger
The bottom really dropped out of the market here a couple of years ago, but
prices had gone crazy.
Paul.
Especially Heritage Oldsmobile/Subaru/Volkswagon. The sales staff employ
deceptive sales tactics. I purchased a used 1987 Ford Taurus wagon for
$6500.00, the sales staff then offered me a 12month/12000 mile powertrain
warranty for $758.00, what they didnt tell me was that the vehicle had the
balance of the Ford Extended warranty available to be transferred to me for
$100.00. I bought the car and the policy since it was a used car and I did
not know how the previous owner had cared for the car. Well I found out,
I took the car in for service, it needed a water pump (covered by GM warranty)
and it needed a timing chain cover (not covered by GM, but covered by Ford
which I was not made aware of) cost $388.00. I then got my car back from
service drove home and the oil light came on when I was stopped. I pulled over
checked the dipstick, plenty of oil. I went home and called Olds they said
bring it back, drove to Heritage they sent it to Lincoln-Mercury dealer for
more repairs. Get a call the car is done, problem was low idle (I didnt buy
that), drove car about 10 miles, stopped and the oil light is on again. I turned
around and drove back to Heritage and said still not fixed. They sent the car
back to the Lincoln-Mercury dealer and they had the car two weeks, problems
found were bad crank and oil pump. I picked up my car last night and talked
to the general manager at Heritage about the sales tactics and not offering
me the balance of the Ford warranty, he said they have no way of knowing if
the vehicle has a transferrable warranty (BULL#$%@), I called Ford consumer
service and in five minutes they told me of the warranty, any outstanding
recall notices and when the vehicle was delivered to the original owner. I
informed the general manager that he should collect the 800 numbers of all
the major automobile makers, place them on a piece of paper, xerox that paper
and place them on every salesmans desk. I am not a happy customer, total cost
to me for warranty and repairs $1146.00, if I had known about the Ford warranty
at time of sale total cost to me $100.00. Today I plan on calling the owner of
Heritage, he runs a commercial that says "I’d rather have happy customers than
make money.", well I’m going to see if his slogan is for real.
Mike Leuschner
74 Super Bug / 80 Camaro Z28 / 87 Ford Taurus Wagon
Does any one out there know of any convertibles for sale? I would like it
to be in nice condition(at least the body). I would prefer a 70′s
full-size, but it doesn’t matter. I would want to pay $2000 for
it, but that isn’t final. I wouldn’t mind doing any engine work if it needed
it. Please e-mail.
Thanks
malo…@badlands.NoDak.edu
Since i got no reply in rec.motorcycles and there isn«t any group called
rec.motorcycles.antique, I try this group.
I am interested in any information of "New Hudson" motorcycles. I think the
factory stopped producing motorcycles in the early thirties.
Help me finish my Nova! It’s a red/red 1964 SS 2dr hardtop, with a
350/4-bolt/3sp auto. ’62-’65 SS parts preferred, but ANY and ALL
parts that will fit are of interest! I’m on a budget, so "inexpensive"
and "works" are much more important than "perfect" and "correct".
Parts Wanted:
——-
Essential:
front seats (orig bucket, bench, or JAZ race-type), rear seat,
emergency brake cable (drum-to-drum), speedo cable, v8 oil pan
Would like:
corvette-style rally wheels (14×6), orig ignition switch, rear interior
side upholstery panels, HO fuel pump (mech or elec), HEI ignition system,
radiator, package shelf, door upholstery panels, carpeting, windshield/rear
window gaskets, traction bars
Parts for trade/sale (from ’64 SS):
———–
orig AM radio, 7 SS hubcaps, Moroso 7qt 62-65 oil pan, hood w/7" snorkel
scoop, Z/28 bond-on scoop, B&M auto shifter
Pat Mancuso
pat…@ctron.com